I was recently asked to explain what the difference is between the kind of modelling I do and the kind of modelling people tend to be more familiar with, with involves fashion agencies. I thought I'd write a little bit of an explanation from my point of view. Obviously this is more aimed at people not working the the modelling/photography industry and is only my opinion, so I'm sure other people will disagree with me!
When most people think of a model, they think of a Kate Moss type figure, a size zero long-legged creature who jets around the world shooting for designers and magazines such as Vogue in amazing locations and doing catwalk shows. These kind of models work for big agencies such as Storm or Models One. These agencies select models who have the look they are after and are strict about who they take on. They book work for the models and send them to castings (like auditions). The agency takes a cut of the fee paid to the model. This tends to be how modelling works for 'high fashion'.
the soul-destroying experience of castings...Other agencies exist, such as specialised agencies for black models, Asian models, glamour models, plus-size models etc. Sometimes agencies specialise in 'commercial work'. When you see a model in something like a bank advert or a newspaper photo, quite often the model will be from a commercial agency. These agencies are less strict about the height and clothes sizes of models but they are still very selective.
'Character' agencies also exist that specialise in more unusual models. If a client wants a dwarf, elderly man, heavily tattooed woman, amputee etc they will often go to an agency that specialises in character models.


Being on an agency's books increases a model's chance of getting higher profile and better paid work. However, it is possible to model without being taken on by an agency. Websites such as
Model Mayhem, Purestorm and
Net-Model enable aspiring models to make a profile page and add some photos. They're kind of like facebook or myspace but modelling-photography related. The model has an online portfolio of a few photos and types some details about the sort of work she is interested in. It is possible to browse and message other photographers and models to arrange to shoot with them. Often there are forums where people will advertise if they are looking for a model as well as people offering critique and advice. Anyone can join one of these websites, you just need to have a few photos of yourself.
Models who shoot work in genres such as artistic nude, alternative or fetish often work outside of agencies and book the majority of their work through websites such as the ones I have mentioned. A shoot can be organised by replying to an advert looking for models, being contacts by an interested photographer or messaging them directly. Some websites have a reference system (a bit like ebay feedback!) where photographers and models can leave comments on someone they have worked with, recommending them or otherwise.
These websites can be a really good way of networking and finding people to work with. As a new model it is difficult to get paid work until you have a good portfolio with a variety of images. Using a website a model can get in touch with photographers to work on a TF (time for) basis. This means that the photographer gives the model images from the shoot that they can use in their portfolio but there is no financial payment.
There are a lot of great points to modelling independently from an agency. You get to call the shots (no pun intended!), organise your own work and put yourself across exactly was you want, and when you're paid there's no one taking a cut. You discuss your own fees and arrangements and set your own rules. Models who do not fit the look that agencies are after (for example, shorter, curvier, more unusual look) can find their own work this way. Indeed, if you're looking to do nude or fetish work, agencies do not tend to cater for this! I know models who make their full-time living booking their work independently. The websites are usually free to join and if you're new to modelling they are a great place to start. If you're travelling or looking for someone local it can be easy to bring up a list of people in that area and get in touch. As a photographer it's so easy, if I want a model I have a browse though local people, look at their portfolio then message someone I like. If they reply we can discuss putting a shoot together, simple!
However, there are also downsides. As I've said, anyone can make a profile and call themselves a 'model' or 'photographer'. People may fib about their experience, or indeed what they look like! There's little in the way of vetting or quality control. The sites are welcome to amateurs but they may also attract people who are uninformed and unprofessional. 'GWC' is a phrase used (guy with camera) to refer to men who have worked out that having a camera means they can get girls to take their clothes off and don't necessarily have professional interests! There are always risks associated with being in touch with people online and as a new model it may be heard to work out who is the real deal and who is best avoided. Also, (as I often find), modelling freelance can mean spending hours and hours replying to emails, searching forums and casting lists for jobs, and people don't always reply to their messages. Flaky behaviours seems common with these online websites, where a shoot can be organised with a pretty low level of commitment.
Personally I think these online modelling sites, though annoying at times, are really great. They give a platform to people who want to model but don't necessarily fit the look or style that agencies are after, and give you the opportunity to network with a wide variety of creative people all around the world as well as learn a lot from other people. Although there are wannabe and unprofessional people on these sites, there are also very many highly skilled and professional people on them. I've met and worked with some fantastic individuals and I definitely recommend these sites to people who have thinking of modelling or want to photograph modes.